Hi
Just back from my mini-trip a one night stay last Saturday. This all started off after I read Truffaut%26#39;s description of her meal at Sanderens and decided next time we had a free week-end and there was a Eurostar deal we would be on our way. Well as we sat in the Kent countryside watching the rain, realising that our mini-trip was getting minier by the minute, contemplating how they cope with a dying train, feeling dinner slipping away as I assumed they would have to tow us back to Waterloo they suddenly announced that we could limp into Ashford. So 20 minutes later we were in Ashford playing train swop. This is huge fun. You take two Eurostars, preferable pretty full. Line them up on a platform opposite each other, open the doors and instructed everybody to swop trains. So we were in a working train and the others were left to limp back to Waterloo. Well it was working after they managed to retract the steps eventually. On through the tunnel and France where they announced that to compensate for our problems we could have a 50% reduction on our next return trip...so another 2 for the price of 1 deal. That cheered me up as the museum that I had wanted to visit but now would not have time could wait to next time.
From GdeN quickly to our hotel. Our ancient green metro tickets still worked! Then onto the post office in Rue du Louvre, thanks Bob S, it was open and the queues were bad but as Phread had reminded me I used the self-service. My goodness you have it easy in Paris it was in four languages. They make you sweat it out in Cavalaire. So ski pass request winging it%26#39;s way to the Alps we were off to St Eustache. I even managed to walk pass Dehillerin without going in, actually it was heaving with people. St Eustache was all that everybody has said , beautiful and not overrun like Notre Dame. They were having a concert that evening but of course dinner was booked.
So a wander around doing nothing in particular just letting Paris wash over us. Three times I managed to walk pass the Oyster bar round the corner from our hotel and resist going in but it was tough only the thought that I must not ruin my appetite stopped me. So it was a coffee and a shared Tarte au Pomme.
Then the main point of the trip - dinner. We had already decided that we wanted to take the drink recommendations. Everybody else we saw was doing this and it does give you that marvellous opportunity to taste a wine that truly complements the food. So we started with two glasses of Champagne while trying to decide what we wanted to eat. I changed my mind at least three times. Now here comes my only gripe. The service was too fast and I regret now not slowing them down. While I was still choosing from the menu the amuse-bouche arrived. Now if this had just been a few nibbles with my aperitif it would have been fine but it wasn%26#39;t. So we ordered, had our amuse-bouche and while I still had half a glass of champagne my entree wine showed up. I felt rushed through my champagne as I knew the entrees would soon be with us. Now I liked not having to choose my dessert in advance as I never know what I will feel like. But again as we were choosing dessert a pre-dessert sorbet showed up. In fact we were in the restaurant for less than two hours so I%26#39;m not sure if they were being naughty and getting a late booking for our table. Anyway gripe over. I loved the atmosphere, very informal. The food was terrific, not excessive as some places can be when trying to prove themselves. Just top class ingredients and preparation. I had ravioli de palourdes et coques and perdreau rouge roti. The wines being a Pouilly-Fume and a Beaune. Dessert was fine dacquise au poivre de Sechouan, glace au gingembre with a Sauternes. At the end of the meal I just felt so comfortable not in the slightest bit as if I had over-indulged. Thank you Truffaut.
So back to the hotel pass Place de la Concorde, I always like to see where I very nearly met my maker. People say Etoile is dangerous to drive round but give that one anyday! Down Rue de Rivoli pass the Hotel Brighton where I think some others have passed good holidays.
We were on the 1pm train so up and to market. Stopped for breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien and on to Rue Montorgueil at Bob S%26#39;s suggestion backed up by Phread. What a delight. That part of town had passed me by but I really loved it. I bought my saucisses (and made my cassoulet yesterday), contained myself in the cheese shop with just four cheeses. I had pity on my fellow passengers and did not buy the vacherin. I%26#39;ll wait until I get to the mountains. Then just opposite I found Stohrer%26#39;s. All that a girl needs for the train journey back. We had rocket and parmesan salad, tomato and basil tart, terrine-en-croute and some little nut rolls but I could have bought everything. We then wandered round the neighbourhood which as I said we both really liked, in fact enough to make me stop at the window of the immobilier. Luckily it was shut but who knows when we sell in the south?????
So thanks to Bob and Phread for answering my not so usual questions and keeping me on track.
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Glad you liked, and you may have quite possilby convinced me to go to Senderon%26#39;s for my b-day next week......
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JBart,
I%26#39;m glad I was able to turn you on to Senderens. I think the chef%26#39;s point was to get rid of the 4-hour dining experience and replace it with something equally delicious, but much more manageable. I%26#39;m sorry it was a bit rushed--that wasn%26#39;t our experience. Perhaps it was just your particular waiter. By the way, I%26#39;m a guy.
Phread,
You really must go. I don%26#39;t think you%26#39;ll get a dinner reservation at this point, but lunch is probably workable. Although, perhaps if W%26#39;s secretary calls for an %26quot;official%26quot; business reason, a table might be had. Happy B-day. If I had known, I would have brought more Cheerios wrapped up with a nice ribbon!! Perhaps in your honor, they%26#39;ll trick out your dessert plate with something made from a carrambar and some red pepper sauce!
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Sorry about my mistake Truffaut :( I%26#39;m always getting it wrong on these forums.
Just thinking about what you said about the four hour dining experience and you might have something there. I just felt so comfortable after the meal at Sanderens, it was not too much or too rich. This summer down near Le Lavandou we went to a restaurant that is tipped for two stars soon. However it was just too much and I felt really uncomfortable and full afterwards. The grand finale was ten desserts and then sweets,chocolates, biscuits. I actually could not eat for 16 hours afterwards. So I applaud him in trying to change that.
BTW my sister who went in September also had a leisurely meal but I don%26#39;t think that was Saturday evening.
Next suggestion for my compensation trip?
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Bistrot le Petit Pamphlet on rue Saint Gilles in the 3rd prepares amazingly good food. Next to Senderens, it was the best meal I had in Paris in July. I just went last week, and the performance was superb again. The atmosphere is elegantly simple, the staff is very friendly. One of my companions mentioned out loud that he was on a diet, and the waitress called him %26quot;Monsieur Au Régime%26quot; the remainder of the evening. The bill for three people was around 150 euros including wine.
Entrées:
Fresh crab tartare on a pumpkin puree surrounded by a pool of pumpkin vélouté
Salad with chèvre croutons
Escargots with sun-dried tomatoes, morels, and a balsamic glaze
Plats
Filet of beef with foie gras
Seared cod on a bed of lentils de Puy
Duck confit
Desserts
Sautéd clementines with crème anglaise
Apple pancake with apple sorbet and caramel sauce
Wine
A phenomenal Terre Brune Bandol (only 35 euros--our caviste sells it for 21)
Sweets
A variety of chocolates and small cookies
Coffee
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Oohh, you are making my mouth water and we still have 3 months to go.
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Truffaut, you forgot to mentionned the great service, professionnal, pleasant even playful without of course being familiar. There is even some space between the tables! Une soirée parfaite, merci encore.
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Hello Luckyluc
Could you please email me at fleyrat@yahoo.com
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JBart,
I%26#39;ve really enoyed your trip report and on the strength of it ( and other favourable reviews) have made a reservation at Senderens for dinner next month.
I have a query regarding dress code which I would appreciate your opinion on. I have an aversion to wearing suits to restaurants as I wear suits every working day and prefer to spend my leisure time, particularly holidays, in more casual attire. I have found that 2 and 3 star restaurants tend to vary considerably in terms of clientele and dress code-would you consider Senderens to lean more towards the stuffy or relaxed?
Anyone else%26#39;s opinion would be most welcome too!
Pat.
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A suit would not be necessary, but a well put-together urbanized outfit would work nicely. Black slacks, grey cashmere turtleneck...that sort of thing.
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Unclepat
Truffaut has answered exactly.
My husband is the same as you so he wore a black polo-necked cashmere sweater and black slacks. I only saw one person with a tie and jacket but that was not a suit. Everybody else was in open-necked shirts or sweaters. So it should suit you, sorry about the pun, down to the ground. The only other comment I would make is that everybody except one lady had something black on!!!!
I do hope you enjoy it now, I feel responsible.
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