Just returned from a wonderful six-day trip to celebrate my 50th birthday with my “new” husband (of three years). I’ve been to Paris probably ten times (I was a French major back in the Middle Ages), but he had never been. It was my first time back to Paris in six years – the exact same time, as a matter of fact, leaving the U.S. on Thanksgiving Day to avoid the crowds and high lodging prices. Here are some of the highlights from the perspective of a seasoned veteran and a newbie:
• It was so much fun initiating a new visitor to the joys of Paris! We totally lucked out with the weather - three of the six days were SUNNY and the rest were cloudy, but warm, with just a few rain showers. We walked so much, particularly along the Seine. We didn’t have a hard and fast schedule of what to see, which has its pros and cons. For instance, we were glad to dash to St. Chapelle on our first sunny day, which was the first time I’ve seen it in the sun – that blew me away! But sometimes, we spent a lot of time wondering what to do next. I’d say, make a tentative schedule, but keep it flexible to adjust for the weather. I think we hit all the biggies that a first-timer should see (and a veteran can still enjoy): Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Marais, Montmartre, Notre Dame, St. Germain, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysées, the Ritz and Place de la Concorde, Batobus. Hubby can’t wait for the next trip!
• Paris was mobbed with tourists from all over; many Americans, but also many from the EU. So much for “off-season.” I was shocked at how hard it was to find restaurants on the weekend, how crowded the museums were, etc. I didn’t find this to be the case on my last visit in 2000. I can’t imagine how bad it must be in the summer!
• Paris Walks tours are fantastic! We did the Da Vinci Code and Montmartre tours (I’d done the Marais tour on my last trip). Usually 10 euro and no reservations – just show up at the designated meeting point. Our Da Vinci guide was very entertaining and knowledgeable. Highly recommended for veterans and newbies alike! (…compuserve.com/homepages/pariswalking/)
• My husband’s main complaint was the service in restaurants and cafés. He often wanted to order something, or get the check, only to not even see a waiter to flag him down. I explained that they don’t hover like in the U.S., but he couldn’t get used to the concept. He also claims to have lost weight from eating just a continental breakfast and the “tiny” portions served in the restaurants (he’s got an enviable metabolism!), but I don’t think he suffered THAT much!
• My only complaint was the “Galeries Lafayette incident.” I bought numerous souvenir items at the excellent department they have on the 6th floor at GL. I purchased them at the register where one clerk rang them up and another wrapped the fragile ones. I took my bag and started to leave via the escalator when I noticed the bag was a bit ripped – it was lucky that happened because I looked into the bag and thought that a small item was missing. I returned to the counter and asked about it – sure enough, a small bag with my two mini Eiffel Towers wasn’t put into the bigger bag. I asked if she were sure I had everything – she said, “bien sur.” I then decided to review the itemized receipt and count my items. Sure enough, there were two more items that were left out, sitting right there on the counter. The sales clerk did not apologize. I’m not sure if it was deliberate, but lesson learned – if you buy multiple items, make sure they’re ALL put into the bag!
• I amazed my husband with my Métro skills, quickly determining the route without advance planning and navigating the complicated correspondences, BUT there were occasions where the signage was confusing or missing and we ended up on a wrong platform. Note to newbies: when you get to a Métro platform, be sure to confirm you’re in the right place by checking the “Direction” sign – that saved us a lot of grief at least twice. Also, remember to keep your current ticket in case of “control” (Métro officials checking valid tickets) and you also need your ticket to exit on longer trips, like to and from the airports.
• Although we were completely informed going in, it’s still a little shocking how much dining out costs, compared to similar experiences in the U.S. Hot lunch with a little house wine ran about $50 for the two us; dinner with a medium-priced wine was routinely $150. We didn’t eat exclusively at high end places either, but we didn’t skimp on wine or aperitifs. You can do it cheaper, if you must, but I wonder how tourists on a budget manage. The dollar/euro conversion rate was the worst in 19 months, I noticed on CNN – that certainly doesn’t help! Generally, it was worth it, though! I’ll post a separate dining report.
So, all in all, a very successful and wonderful trip for the both of us. We got to see the Christmas lights and décor on the Champs-Elysées and at the grand magasins, as well as some individual buildings (Ile St. Louis was exquisite!) Hubby’s favorite thing was just walking around, taking in the atmosphere, the architecture, the people… that truly is what makes Paris the greatest city on earth, at least for us!
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Great report Shaken Bake! We leave in 3 weeks. My %26quot;new%26quot; husband took me to Paris for the first time 1 1/2 years ago (actually it was before we got married), and now we%26#39;re taking %26quot;our%26quot; 3 kids. I%26#39;m the same kind of traveler as you - no hard and fast schedule, but I%26#39;m TRYING to be a little more organized this trip so that the kids (14, 15 %26amp; 17) can make the most of it. I%26#39;m with your hubby though - walking around taking it all in is the best part...
I await your food report! That%26#39;s what has me the most scared - we ALL love good food and my husband and I love wine so between that and the lousy dollar I%26#39;m thinking I%26#39;ll need to take out a second mortgage :)
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I enjoyed reading your report and it is nice to see Paris thru first time tourist! Thanks!
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Great report! Thank you. But to make you fell better about the exchange think about us and our poor little Canadian dollar !
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Excellent report and happy belated 50th birthday!!!
I was surprised to read about the Galeries Lafayette incident. They should have been very apologetic instead of indifferent.
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I%26#39;m curious. Some of your concerns prior to this trip were--
Finding floral eclairs?
Staying awake on day of arrival?
Finding %26amp; using ATMs at CDG?
What were your experiences of these?
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Hi KD
Thanks for asking! No, I wasn%26#39;t the floral eclair person! But tragically, I never got to one patisserie during my trip! Timing just wasn%26#39;t right when we did pass one, and there were none, absolutely none, in our neighborhood (and I looked all over!) Can you imagine?
Well, for all my sermonizing and good intentions, we did take a nap our first day! It was raining and we were absolutely exhausted. But we did get up after two hours and ate late, and had no trouble sleeping that night and getting up early the next day. It worked out!
Found the ATM very easily at CDG - the round terminal where we arrived isn%26#39;t that big. Got our cash without problem.
While we%26#39;re on the subject of CDG, this was very annoying: we arrived more than two hours before our departure to Chicago on United and checked in within minutes of our arrival - no problems. Then on to the gate, where I was very disappointed to see very limited duty free shopping - I was hoping to pick up a few last minute gifts but they only have a couple of kiosks for liquor and cigarettes, not a store. We didn%26#39;t go through security until right at the gate, which surprised me. No line whatsover, so we had an hour and a half in a bare-bones waiting area. There was only a tiny snack bar and no rest rooms within the secure area - you had to go back out to use the toilet which was only a few steps away! Of course, I sailed through security with all my stuff the first time, but set off the alarm when I returned and had to get patted down! Figures! Who designed that area, I wonder?
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I remember thinking the same thing on the way home in Sept. Who on earth designed the gate area at CDG!!?? It has inadequate seating for the number of people normally there and the restrooms are before security. It makes no sense. Glad to know I%26#39;m not the only one who thought that. Oh and I also enjoyed the trip report!
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